02 November 2015

Mallacoota dreaming




Mallacoota is near the very tip of Victoria (Gabo Island, the BOM's eastern-most weather recording spot for Victoria is just off the coast).
It is shrouded in the Croajingolong National Park and bushland, and is on the shore of a lake and estuary that open out into the Southern Ocean, with the Pacific just around the corner.

Getting there - Melbourne to Mallacoota (6 hours non-stop)

Pit stops

Home - Traralgon 2 hours - 

Bushies Bakery
Bushie's Bakery, Main St, Glengarry
(9 mins outside Traralgon)




 
Leave the Highway at Traralgon or Stratford and take the well-marked Route C105Gippsland Plains map
For further details, wander over the map or select your location below


Traralgon - Lakes' Entrance 2 hours -

Awesome fish n chips, 337 Esplanade, Lakes Entrance
If your after crispy fried fish ....this is fish and chips with Asian style frying. Almost a tempura like batter, choose the local fresh fish


Fishermen's co-op - fresh fish for sale (as well as fish n chips) Fishermens Own Leftrade Omega3


Shop 5 Safeway Arcade, Lakes Entrance,


link to map
 Mallacoota map



Mallacoota & Croajingolong National Park :: Coastal Wilderness

"Bush and wildlife, extensive waterways, walking trails, Gabo Island historic lighthouse, on and off shore fishing and a relaxed lifestyle, just 23kms off the Princes Highway. Mallacoota is well known to generations of Australians and by our international guests. You can stand on a beach with the wind in your hair and easily imagine being thousands of miles from anywhere or simply watch the whales passing by or the porpoises at play in the shallows. Throw in a line and fish in the solitude of a morning sunrise or the evenings glow."

The World Biosphere Reserve of Croajingolong National Park covers 87500ha, it is one of Victoria’s larger parks which includes 100 km of beautiful, undeveloped coastline.

Named after the Aboriginal people of the area, Croajingolong follows the far-eastern coastline of Victoria for 100 kilometres and features eucalypt forest, rainforest and heathland.
Secluded coastal camping spots are a perfect base for beach walks, birdwatching, boating and fishing. Relax in a boat on the Mallacoota Lakes, climb Genoa Peak for panoramic views along the coast or visit the massive sand dunes at Thurra River.
Point Hicks Lightstation, set deep within the park, is an imposing concrete tower completed in 1890. While Gabo Island Lightstation, built of distinctive pink granite, can be reached by air or sea. Both offer tours and accommodation.
WALKS

Mallacoota Coastal WalkMallacoota Coastal Walk
The Mallacoota Coastal Walk opened in February 2013. This easy walk will take you on a fantastic journey of exploration through Mallacoota’s scenic coastline.
From Mallacoota, the track leads through tall forest and rainforest gullies, along the banks of the tranquil Davis Creek, through stunning coastal heathland, 
woodland to eventually reach the quiet waters of the Betka River. 
From the Betka Beach car park, the track hugs the top of the coastal escarpment to Quarry Beach, Secret Beach and eventually into Croajingolong National Park. A beautiful short loop track along the banks of Betka River is also available. Lookouts along the way provide fantastic vistas of the coastline, taking in vast sweeping beaches, Cape Howe and Gabo Island. The total walk is approximately 9km one way, however it may be tackled in sections, There are a number of car parking areas along the route to permit this (see map). The sections include the Casuarina Walk (1.8km one way), The Heathland Walk (0.8km one way), Davis Creek to Betka Beach Picnic Ground (1.2km one way), and Betka Beach to Pebbly Beach 5.5km one way).
Note: If the Betka River Mouth is closed, access to the Pebbly Beach section is via the beach section. However, if the Betka River Mouth is open, it is recommended that walkers drive to the Betka Beach Picnic Ground to access the southe
Mallacoota Coastal Walk Map
rn section of the walk as the Betka River Bridge is for vehicle traffic. 

The Loop track mentioned above is approximately 1.8km in length offering magnificent coastal vistas, heathland communities and enchanting river views as the path wanders through a riparian open forest community with its well defined upper stratum of ancient angophoras, white stringy barks and bloodwoods, a middle stratum of pittosporum, wattles and mellaleuca, a lower stratum of cassinia and Goodenia ovata with a variety of ground covering species. This environment provides a range of protected habitats for many birds, the chorus of their calls adding further pleasure to this section.

The new track joins the Old Coast Walking track to Shipwreck Beach (see Shipwreck Creek Walks below). There are 9 new viewing platforms each offering magnificent seascapes revealing the true beauty of Australia’s Coastal Wilderness.

Excellent access points to Davis Creek Beach, Quarry Beach and Pebbly Beach have been provided and are suitable entry points to sections of the Mallacoota Coastal Walk. 
Many of our walking tracks are also navigable by bike. Bike hire is available from various outlets around town.

Shady Gully Walk: (0.6km) (Map1 – E8 to C8) The walk passes through a dry schlerophyl forest of Mountain Grey Gum, Angophora and Stringy Bark and a remnant rainforest. Interpretive boards outline fauna and flora species of the area. 

Casuarina Walk: (1.8km) (Map 1 – C8 to C12) Starting opposite the Miva Miva Centre (on the Mallacoota-Genoa Road), the path goes through a Casuarina littoralis community (seed capsules of this Casuarina provide food for the Glossy Black Cockatoo).  The track leads to Betka Road.

Heathland Walk: (0.8 km) (Map 1 – C12 to C14) This walk starts opposite the end of the Casuarina Walk on Betka Road just past the Davis Creek Bridge. One feature of this walk is the vegetation change from forest to heathland. Typical heathland plants which may be seen include heaths, orchids, scrub casuarina, banksias, acacias, daisies, hakeas, grass trees etc. Birds which have been observed include Whistling Kites, Ground Parrots, Emu Wrens, and Swallows. The walk ends at the Davis Beach access car park.


Beach Walk: (2.1 km) (Map 1 – C14 via H13 to G12) This walk is accessed by a set of steps leading down through a coastal plant community from the car park serving Davis Beach or by turning right on the beach below the Bastion Point Lookout and proceeding around the point.   At the Davis Beach end, there is a rock formation you may have to climb over if the tide is high (take care).  Rock pools are at Bastion Point.

Pittosporum Walk:
 (1.4km) (Map 1 – G12 to E10) This walk can be accessed from Bastion Point car park. The walk provides excellent views of Pittosporum Walkislands, sand flats of the tidal delta (the largest in Victoria), Gabo Island and the Howe Range. The endemic Pittosporum thrives in the moist gullies. Some access and departure points of the gullies are moderately steep. Mistletoe Birds, Scarlet Honey eaters, Firetails, Lyrebirds and Whip Birds may be seen or heard. A commemorative plaque is a reminder of the indigenous heritage of the area.

Mallacoota Gum - Hybrid Mountain Grey & BlueHeritage Trail: (0.5km) (Map 1 – E10) A brochure is available for this walk at the Visitor Information Shed . It will introduce you to some of the cultural and natural features of Mallacoota including the rare Mallacoota Gum (a hybrid of Mountain Grey Gum and Blue Gum). There are approximately 40 specimens. Evidence of aboriginal occupation, early European settlement and a range of plant species will be seen.





Mallacoota




Coota Beach House (via Stayz)

38 Terra Nova Drive, Mallacoota 
$125 / night
a nice, calming place to relax and be on the ocean side of Mallacotta
a 20 minute walk into the town centre
Coota Beach House photo 1 MallacootaCoota Beach House photo 1 MallacootaCoota Beach House photo 1 MallacootaCoota Beach House photo 1 MallacootaCoota Beach House photo 1 MallacootaCoota Beach House photo 1 Mallacoota



While we're there

Melbourne to Sydney Coastal Drive (The Guardian)


Trek to Point Hicks lighthouse: Getting to the start of this walk, along an unsealed 45km road through Croajingalong’s forested slopes, is part of the adventure. The 4.5km return trek winds behind beaches framed by granite boulders before ascending to the lighthouse, reaching 37m above a rocky headland that was Captain Cook’s first sighting of the Australian mainland, in April 1770. Weekend tours at 1pm.
Visit the Eden killer whale museum: “Which is the second most intelligent creature on the planet?” asks guide Barry Smith during our tour before answering his own question: the killer whale. There is plentiful evidence for his claim, including the symbiotic relationship between killer whales (actually the largest dolphins) and man going back to early Koori habitation of this area.

03 June 2014

adelaide anniversary

Cathy Brooks - signs of life installation
it's the anniversary of my stroke in july, and we've been encouraged to take a holiday to commemorate our recovery from that time

noosa - no, we'd just returned from there last year when i had my stroke
mission beach - warm, remote but too far, 6 hour flight + 2 hour drive = too much
daylesford - small train trip but too cold, it sometimes snows in july

so ... adelaide!
we almost got there last year for turner but that had to be cancelled at the last minute

places to stay 

criteria - kitchen, separate bedroom, central & relatively quiet locale, and free wifi if possible (though it seems the whole of adelaide is a hotspot)*

La Loft Apartments
104 North Terrace

shares foyer with Oaks Horizon
iStay Precinct
185 Morphett St


*  turn on WiFi on device & choose AdelaideFree -- 



look up the 5000s for ideas


eating / drinking

market -  
buy fresh produce at the market ...
Sun/MonCLOSED
Tues7am – 5.30pm
Wed9am – 5.30pm
Thurs9am – 5.30pm
Fri7am – 9pm
Sat7am – 3pm
market map (PDF)















getting around

free bike hire - details here
Adelaide City Bikes are free to hire during opening hours of any of the 14 hire locations in Adelaide City, 2 locations in Unley and 5 locations in Charles Sturt. You can hire a City Bike from any of the participating hire locations during their opening hours.  Helmet and bike lock rental also available.

free city connector bus - map / timetable (PDF)



airport to/from
JetBus services travel to and from the city, Glenelg and the north-eastern suburbs.
All JetBuses are Metroticket services. Single trip and daytrip tickets can be purchased from bus drivers.
Click here to go to the Adelaide Metro website. Look for the J1 and J2 route information.

tram to/from glenelg
old time glenelg
spend the day at glenelg

lunch at the beach (lots of pubs on the esplanade)
walk along the foreshore to henley beach and catch the bus back, or stroll further to semaphore and catch the train








things to see & do







Museum of Economic Botany - Adelaide Botanic Garden, North Tce


10 - 4

plant samples, papier mache fruit, and a cabinet of curiosities by local girl, fiona hall


visiting exhibition – Urpflanze Street Plants, by Caroline Rothwell
references Goethe's theory of the "archetypal plant" as inspiration, in which she has created hybrid "uber-weeds" ... "Weeds go where we go … like humans, they're mega colonisers," she explains.



Himeji Garden  South Terrace, between Charlotte St and Louisa St, City

Built to celebrate Adelaide and the Japanese city of Himeji becoming sisters in 1982, the garden employs traditional Japanese design features to create a Zen oasis amongst the grind of city life. As you step through the slatted bamboo gates, the noise from South Terrace and Glen Osmond Road recedes into the background. Walk through the meandering paths, stop and sit by the sand garden, and watch the turtles swim slowly through the pond. 

03 November 2013


North Western Australia - Warlu Way -
Way of the sea serpent


The Warlu Way trail

The Warlu Way follows the path of the warlu, or Dreamtime sea serpent, as it traverses North West Australia and the Pilbara and Kimberley regions of Western Australia – ancient and sacred landscapes rich in natural beauty and enchanting Aboriginal stories. Your jourrney takes you back in time to the mystical Dreaming era when the warlu emerged from the sea and travelled through the pulsing red heart of the outback, forming magnificent waterways as he moved.

Beginning on the shores of the world’s largest fringing reef, Ningaloo, the Warlu Way leads you 2,480 kilometres from sapphire seas to the lush oases, soaring gorges, rugged ranges and ancient Aboriginal art of North West Australia’s Pilbara and Kimberley regions. Interpretive signage along the drive opens your eyes to the secrets of this country and its historical, cultural and natural wonders.


The Warlu Way travels from Exmouth to Broome, with side-trips to cultural sites and national parks.

Next July, we're hoping an abbreviated version, 

  1. fly into Learmonth
  2. Exmouth - to swim (with whale sharks)/snorkel the Ningaloo Reef
  3. perhaps loop up to Cape Range National Park - camp there
  4. drive up to Dampier and explore Murujuga - the Burrup Peninsula (2-3 days)
  5. drive to Roebourne, visit the Arts Centre
  6. drive to Millstream-Chichester National Park
Going back either
  1. loop back the way we came to Learmonth
  2. travel on to Tom Price / Karajini National Park, back to Learmonth via P

Dive with whale sharks
Every year from April to July following the mass spawning of coral, the world’s biggest species of fish congregate in the Ningaloo Marine Park. These are the Whalesharks! The chance to snorkel with these gentle giants is the opportunity of a lifetime and visitors from all over the world head to the Ningaloo Reef during Whaleshark season. These massive filter feeders can grow up to 18m long. They cruise the world’s ocean in search of concentrations to feed on. Ningaloo Reef is one of the only places they appear regularly in large numbers. Very little is known about the biology of these creatures so research is ongoing.

Day tours to snorkel with Whalesharks depart daily during the season from both Exmouth and Coral Bay. The experience is open to confident swimmers of all ages..

Price comparison via short travel tips

Tour OperatorAdultChildVideo/PhotoNo sightings policy
Exmouth Diving Centre$385 $299$60In the unlikely event no whale shark is sighted on your tour we do offer repeat tour on any available spot within the next 3 years.
King’s Ningaloo Reef Tours$385$270$60
Ningaloo Blue Dive$385$220$60If you don’t see a Whale Shark go again for FREE!
Ningaloo Whaleshark Swim (previously Ningaloo  Dreaming)$380$270FREEphotos of your dayIn the very unlikely event you don’t see a whale shark on your tour, we will take you out again free of charge on the next available tour.  If you can’t make that, we’ll give you a voucher for a whale shark tour valid for the next three years.
Owns and operates own spotter plane. Offers a Best Price guarantee for your tour.
Ningaloo Whaleshark-N-Dive$390$270$50Second trip at no charge on the next available whale shark tour. Offers a non-transferable voucher valid for the next 2 years.
Ocean Eco Adventures$395$275FREE tour DVDOffers repeat voucher is valid for a three year period if they can not use it in that season. Ocean Eco Adventures is also conducting research on the Ningaloo Marine Park on every cruise that clients can get involved with.
Has own spotter plane.
Three Islands Whale Shark Dive$385$265FREE CD of Photos from the day and a Best Of Ningaloo DVDFree repeat tour on next available day or transferablerepeat tour voucher valid for the current and following two seasons or downgrade to ‘observer’ and receive partial refund.
Has own spotter plane.
* there is no published prices for the current season yet.




It is just after dawn when we lower our kayaks into the still water of Crossing Pool - or Murlamunyjunha, its more musical indigenous name - in the Millstream-Chichester National Park. The morning mist, which the Yindjibarndi people believe is smoke from the spirits' campfires, is already dissipating. As we push off, the kayaks slice through a liquid rendering of the paperbark-lined banks, the treetops turned bronze by the Pilbara sunrise.

On the water, we are the only things moving, stealing away before even the corellas have stirred. Upon our arrival at the campground a day earlier, mobs of the white-plumed bird - the Yindjibarndi's totem - had hung like welcoming Christmas lights in the waterside trees. When we shut the campervan doors they blasted skyward in screeching clouds.
...

This morning marks the mid-point of our 2500-kilometre drive following the Warlu Way, which links the north-western towns of Broome and Exmouth. The route is inspired by the indigenous legend of the sea serpent, or warlu, which emerged from the ocean and crossed this arid land creating waterways as it moved. Where we are paddling is close to the place, at Nhanggangunha (Deep Reach Pool), where that spirit serpent is believed to live. This makes it one of Western Australia's most significant indigenous cultural sites.

It takes 20 minutes to reach the far end of Crossing Pool and, in that time, I've come the closest an agnostic can to a religious experience. The natural beauty, the palpable spirit in the surroundings and the tranquillity of dawn have combined to have more effect on me than any of Europe's great cathedrals

...

Back on the mainland we find our way to one of Australia's most prolific Aboriginal art sites, Deep Gorge, on the Burrup Peninsula, just north of Karratha. There are more than 10,000 petroglyphs on red boulders, some depicting thylacines, extinct here for 4000 years. We have to tread carefully to avoid stepping on images of emus, turtles and human figures etched into the rocks.

If this extraordinary gallery represents the Pilbara's distant past, its present is symbolised by the Karratha gas plant, sprawling like a giant, fuming space-station nearby. That evening the glow from the plant, part of the North West Shelf Venture, which produces more than 40 per cent of Australia's oil and gas, forms the background as we barbecue dinner at Hearsons Cove, overlooked by the rock engravings.

The next morning we follow the Warlu Way inland again, towards its spiritual heart in Millstream-Chichester National Park. The landscape becomes reminiscent of Arizona, with the Chichester Range protruding out of the coastal plain in cone-shaped hills and ochre mesas.
We spend the next two days exploring the 200,000-hectare national park. Much of it is a desert oasis, with deep waterways, such as Crossing Pool, winding through it, fed by an underground aquifer. Other sections, as we see when we take the coiling road up to Mount Herbert in the park's north, are characterised by spinifex-covered hills and spectacular oblong-shaped escarpments.
The Yindjibarndi roamed this area before the Pyramids were built but it wasn't until 1861 that it was discovered by British explorer Francis Gregory, who recommended it for grazing. At its peak, Millstream Station covered 400,000 hectares and ran 55,000 sheep. The station homestead is now the visitor centre and is linked to Crossing Pool by the 6.8-kilometre Murlamunyjunha Trail, which threads between red gums, white tea trees and palms.


From one special national park we journey on to another, Karijini, 150 kilometres further south. We start at Hamersley Gorge, in the park's north-west. It is a broad, boldly coloured fissure dropping down from the plateau in a succession of shallow falls and blue-green pools. Waves of rock, ranging in hue from purple through ruby to terracotta, run through the gorge walls. After a short climb, we find a grotto, hollowed out of an overhang. Brimming with cool, fresh water, it's an ideal spot to spend the hottest part of the day.
Later, we peer down into an even more profound split in the earth at Oxer Lookout, where three ravines meet, before descending deep into Hancock Gorge, a lean, water-filled chasm with 100-metre walls.

On a previous visit I'd stayed in the campground at the newly opened, Aboriginal-owned Karijini Eco Retreat and eyed its safari-style tents. This time, after eight dusty days on the road, we are happily booked into one.


Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/travel/activity/drives/way-of-the-sea-serpent-20100813-122eb.html#ixzz2jUmQqcE2

Murujuga (Burrup Peninsula)

“The Burrup,” as the locals call it, is only 28 kilometres northwest of Karratha, which again necessitates some four-wheeled means of transport. The name was chosen in 1979 after the island’s highest hill, Mt. Burrup, because the former island was then connected with the mainland by a causeway for a railway line and a road.
The Aboriginal name of the peninsula is Murujuga or Murrijuga.

Aboriginal petroglyphs

Hundreds of thousands of Aboriginal petroglyphs (rock engravings) are distributed over an area of 88 sq km, inviting you to discover them. They range from small engravings of Emu tracks to very large ones representing some kind of corroboree or ceremony, Aboriginal figures climbing a ship’s mast. They depict a Tasmanian Tiger (thylacine), whales, kangaroos, emus and thousands of Aboriginal ceremonies [1].
The number of petroglyphs is estimated to be between 500,000 and 1 million. The National Trust claims that about 10,000 of them have been destroyed in the last 44 years [2].
The artwork done here by Aboriginals will stun you.
For Aboriginal people the rock art is a tangible expression of their people’s ancestral knowledge [3]. They are of profound importance to the local Ngarada people.
But sadly, the people are long gone, so that no-one will ever know what the engravings really represent. The Jaburara people who once lived here have been wiped out.


Read more: http://www.creativespirits.info/australia/western-australia/karratha/murujuga-burrup-peninsula#ixzz2arnao7i3





18 February, 2010 4:12PM AWST (ABC Radio - North West WA)  


Off the beaten track


The Burrup Peninsula is an incredibly sacred site, famous for its rock art.

There is quite literally a new piece of rock art around every corner.

But how much do you know about the islands that are just off it?
Mike Donaldson is avid bushwalker and rock art connoisseur.
Listen as he tells Rachel Fountain that the Burrup Peninsula provides a lot more than just good fishing.










































Burrup's rock art: the protracted World Heritage listing


ABC - Radio National - Monday 29 April 2013 10:05PM

For decades people who have been aware of the vast and precious outdoor art collection known as the Burrup rock art, on the Dampier Archipelago in Western Australia, have been calling for World Heritage listing. Six years ago the area became Australian National Heritage-listed. Last year the Australian Heritage Council recommended World Heritage listing. So what's holding it up? While mounting pressures from industry and visitors potentially threaten the engravings, the Federal Government has issued some new challenges it wants met, before it will approve the listing.